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Entries in abc's of men's fashion (36)

Monday
Jan092017

abc's of men's fashion - 62.

french cuff

French cuffs are twice as long as regular cuffs, and then folded back on themselves and closed with cuff links. 

As they are more formal attire, French cuffs should not be worn every day, unless you’re a mob boss or the CEO of a Fortune 500 company. Generally speaking, French cuffs should only be worn with suit jackets. If you’ve got that certain je ne sais qois about you and know how to wear them without overpowering your outfit, then you might be able to pull off French cuffs with a blazer or a sport coat, but in most situations, it’s best to keep them formal and stick to the suit jacket.

Tuesday
Aug022016

abc's of men's fashion 61.

bomber.

In World War I, most airplanes did not have an enclosed cockpit, so pilots had to wear something that would keep them sufficiently warm. The U.S. Army officially established the Aviation Clothing Board in September 1917 and began distributing heavy-duty leather flight jackets; with high wraparound collars, zipper closures with wind flaps, snug cuffs and waists, and some fringed and lined with fur.

The modern "bomber" or "flight" jacket is fashioned after the ma-1 -- a now-obsolete U.S. military jacket, which is mostly found in sage green. Generally, the ma-1 was made with flight silk nylon and usually had a blaze orange lining, with the specification tag in the pocket.

Without abandoning tradition and the expert craftsmanship of the military original, today's garment has been streamlined and reimagined to suit modern life and tastes while keeping key elements of volume, shape and surface.


Generally constructed of lightweight nylon bonded jersey, a modern day equivalent of the fabric used to keep pilots warm at high altitudes. With ribbed cuffs, a cinched waist, internal detailing and finished with polished gunmetal trims, the end result provides a practical outerwear piece which is understated and cool.

 

- james


 

Monday
May022016

abc's of men's fashion 60.

bespoke.

Bespoke is an adjective for anything commissioned to a particular specification. It may be altered or tailored to the customs, tastes, or usage of an individual purchaser.

A bespoke suit is custom-made, instead of customized from an existing pattern. An individual pattern is cut based on the client’s specific measurements and sewn by hand using fabric that is also hand-selected by the client and fitted to his body. There was a time when all men’s suits were bespoke and men would visit their tailor to be measured, be advised on fabric, style, dressing left or right. The tailor knew all his clients and used to keep patterns for future visits. The world of bespoke creates an intimate relationship between tailor and client. It takes 6 to 8 weeks for the suit to be ready.

 

- James

Thursday
Sep242015

fashion profile - brice pattison.

brice pattison is a designer for the brand todd snyder.

"there are things out there that I appreciate on other people that i wouldn't wear myself because I know it wouldn't be an authentic representation of myself."

I do believe a man should put his clothes on thoughtfully, but the end goal is to not look like you've been overly conscious to the way you're dressing."

"Style is about illustrating who you are in what you wear."

 

- james

Wednesday
Jul292015

fashion profile - yego moravia.

yego moravia - designer, teacher and entrepreneur. creative projects at Hella Crisis. Graphic Arts at the School of Visual Arts in New York City.

"fashion is really just the thing you say without opening your mouth; the thing you say by how the clothes lay on your body and what textures and rhythms, and even words, say on your clothing."

 

"i think style is curation -- i think it's choosing the parts that tell your story best. it takes a little bit of effort to dress yourself in a way that reflects who you are as a person...it takes a little bit of care even though you want it to look like it's no big thing."

"you have to take a little bit of a stand of are you gonna be the type of person that dresses like everyone else, or is there something about you that might want to express yourself a little bit...?"

 

- james

Wednesday
Jun172015

Hardy Amies Snowdon 2015.

 

This small adventure,
In that wild place and at the dead of night,
On we wound,
With forehead bent Earthward,
As in opposition set against an enemy,
With eager pace, and no less eager thoughts.

‘Snowdon’ by W.Wordsworth

 

“Wordsworth’s poem is a story about a battle between ‘man’ and ‘the mountain’. This combined with a more literal colour study of Turner’s palette, formed the beginning of my own story about Mount Snowdon: a modern man’s ascent of the mountain.”

- Mehmet Ali, Creative Director

 

- James

Wednesday
Apr152015

wardrobe care.

Once you’ve collated the perfect wardrobe, it’s essential to keep it looking as good as new. Hardy Amies asked the experts for their tips

 

David Hellqvist, menswear writer and stylist

Anyone can be good at shopping; buying sweaters and trousers isn’t that difficult. We all do it on a regular basis. What you have to remember, though, is that clothes, like puppies, are for life – at least the good-quality ones. It’s fair enough to get off on the chase, as I do – finding the seasonal highlight from your favourite designer can be a thrill, I know, and wearing them for the first time is a treat… but what about the day after? Where do you put it? How do you treat it? These are the questions that matter when it comes to garment care.

Granted, they’re not the sexiest words around. I, too, have been known to build a tower of worn T-shirts next to my bed, but that doesn’t make it right. Who are we to underestimate the sartorial value of a garment? What we wear has as much cultural import as art and music. Fashion, truly, is the fabric of history. Hence this call to arms: take care of your clothes, pay your respects to the wardrobe and honour the lineage of your favourite pieces…

So, how do you do that? What’s the procedure when caring for clothes? Well, there are a few key rules to remember: hang up as many tops as possible, but never cashmere knits, which should always be folded. Double up summer coats on hangers during winter to save space and buy rails with two ‘floors’ so you can have two racks of tops. Hang your ‘top tier’ stuff on the top rail – your best bits, the pieces you’re most likely to wear at the moment. This will change, of course – not so much due to seasonal fads, but more with your mood. I do the same with coats: I have a few on hooks by the door, the rest on a rail. Pieces come and go on rotation.

The washing of clothes is a boring necessity, but one that is topped only by the ironing of shirts. If possible, get a job that doesn’t require ironed shirts. I wear lots of shirts and work hard on trying to cut out the ironing process. The best way of doing that is this: having washed a shirt or tee, hold on to the shoulders and flap it to straighten out the garment. Repeated a few times and then hung up to dry, this will save you lots of ironing time. Please note, though – if it’s a proper dress shirt, it will likely still need to be shown some steam, in which case, it’s best just to get it dry-cleaned and ironed in one go, saving you the bother.

 

Keep your suits ship-shape

 

Joe Butler, apprentice cutter at Hardy Amies

In order to keep your work and eveningwear looking at its very best make sure to have your suits sponged and pressed rather than dry cleaned. You might assume it gives the best results but the dry cleaning chemicals actually strip the natural oils from the wool, damaging the garment.

 

Charlie Teasdale, fashion writer for Man About Town and Brummell

Don’t underestimate the power of a lint roller: It might just be a psychological thing, but a quick waft over one’s clothes between meetings/client lunches/evenings out will have you feeling your sharpest once again.

 

Peter Howarth, editor of Times Luxx Report: Men’s Style

I store all my suits in garment bags, so they are protected and keep their shape. But I never store them in plastic, as this can damage the suit, and I make sure the garment bag is ventilated to stop the suit from getting musty.

 

Keep your shoes in peak condition

 

Tim Little, CEO of Grenson

There are two golden rules with shoes that will make them last a very long time if you adhere to them. First of all, don’t wear the same pair of shoes two days running. They need time to dry out after every wear, as leather is more vulnerable when wet. Secondly, always feed the leather uppers with good quality shoe cream, not just polish. Shoe cream feeds the leather and keeps it soft and supple whereas polish just protects it from the elements.

 

Josh Sims, fashion writer and author of Icons Of Men’s Style

There’s no great shine for your shoes than a military shine. Apply a mix of standard polish and water – and yes, it’s true, spit works even better – using a dry cloth. Work it into the leather’s grain with fingertip. Allow the wax to stand overnight. Then with a brush or, better still, a lambs-wool glove – the longer and harder, the shinier the result. If you can get a ‘parade gloss’ stick and melt that straight onto your shoes using a hot spoon, you really will get a mirror finish. But perhaps that effort is why you’re probably not in the army.

 

Other indispensible tips

 

Charlie Teasdale, fashion writer for Man About Town and Brummell

Over washing can be as bad as under washing: Your favourite shirt will lose its lustre if you stick it in the machine or take it to the dry cleaners too many times, so just wear it less.

 

Peter Howarth, editor of Times Luxx Report: Men’s Style

I make sure to clear out my closets fairly regularly to make sure my clothes are stored loosely so they can breathe. And I use chalk or something that absorbs moisture to make sure my closets stay dry.

 

- hardy amies

 

- james

Monday
Mar302015

fashion profile - street etiquette.

Joshua Kissi and Travis Gumbs are the founders of the, now, world famous men's fashion blog street etiquette.

"Style is every day stuff. It's not brand oriented, it's more fit and personal preference; fit a quality... it's more about you"

THE ABC OF MENS FASHION - STREET ETIQUETTE from Hardy Amies on Vimeo.

It's one of the most intimate things about a person, you know, the way you can connect with a person on the street or your friends. While Fashion is more of a broad stroke, while style is more of a fine stroke. 

 

- james

Thursday
Feb052015

abc's of men's fashion - 59. 

 

accessories.

 

In principle, your accessories, such as ties and shoes, should be more expensive than your basic suit, which in this way can achieve some reflected glory from them.

This gives more than a chance to play dress up. Certainly, it gives men access to what women, with their famed love of shoes and bags, have always known: that a single accessory can be worth a thousand shirts, or at least several suits. A good bag is more than something to carry stuff in; a hat – once customarily worn by any and every man of good breeding, remember – more than a way to keep the rain off; the significance of solid, well-buffed shoes (as mothers traditionally tell their daughters) more than a means of protecting one’s pretty feet.

That’s not simply because, unlike a shirt or suit, an accessory is harder to wear out and so better value. It’s because an accessory gives newness to otherwise everyday attire, a touch of flare to an otherwise pedestrian or conservative mode of dress. And for all that menswear has moved on in leaps over the last 20 or so years, it remains largely conservative – refined in the way Hardy Amies identified as at the heart of good dressing.

More than economy, freshness and colour, however, is the accessory’s real power: to provide individuality. Of course, this can go very wrong indeed: there is a fine line between accessorising with character and wearing a Daffy Duck tie, even if it’s a seven-fold silk number. No amount of novelty hosiery will make its wearer the dapper dandy he hopes to be. It will make him look, to say it straight, like a fool. Wear it well, however, and the accessory in all its 21st-century variety – something Amies would have appreciated – will belie its smallness with its power to transform.

 

- Hardy Amies, Josh Sims, 
  and James 

Wednesday
Jan282015

abc's of men's fashion - 58. 

fashion vs style.

money talks, fashion doesn't have to. Fashion is what you buy, style is what you do with it. 

we can tell you what we like, what we think is fashionable, and what styles we dig, but we can't spoon feed you your own style: you have to create that part on your own.

 

- james