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Entries in dapper (9)


abc's of men's fashion - 60. 


"There was time when a new trenchcoat could get you killed. Although developed before WW1, the classic gabardine trenchcoat, with its D-rings (for maps cases, medals and swords, if required), belt, epaulettes, sleeve straps,  storm pockets and wool lining, came into its own in the war. It was not official issue – officers ordered their own from the Army & Navy catalogue or bought them at Simpson’s or from the various manufacturers’ West End stores. The problem was, German snipers had been told to save their bullets for officers. So the higher ranks of British army slowly discarded any obvious signifiers of rank when at the front, ditching the swagger stick and often their revolver. However, many a new, young subaltern, perhaps promoted from the ranks (‘a temporary gentleman’), having spent a good few pounds on a dashing new khaki trenchcoat, kept that on. Bang. No wonder the average life of a junior officer was just six weeks.

By the mid-WW2, the trenchcoat had become a signifier not of army rank but of moral ambiguity, mainly thanks to Humphrey Bogart in Casablanca, whose Rick Blaine favoured a particularly crumpled, un-military version. The trenchcoat soon became the preserve of men who walked on the shadier side of the street." - hardy Amies

Over time, the Trench coat became less about image and more about function--used as an over layer on top of a suit in rain or cold weather along with the peacoat. this became the go-to overcoat for menswear. Also used as a disguise when the ninja turtles wanted to walk around new york city without being seen... just saying.

Then it disappeared for a number of years.

As the dapper gentleman makes his timeless return into style, the trench coat has begins to creep back into the picture, and it's fantastic.


- James



If you've been a Cult follower for awhile, you know a couple things about me already:


  1. I dig menswear
  2. I'm all about that bargain, 'bout that bargain, no ripoffs


So when our friends at Simply Skinny Ties offered to send us a couple of their pieces to try out, I was pumped. A relatively new company out of Utah, Simply Skinny aims "To provide each of [their] customers with a line of unique, high quality neckties for a simple price." Music to my ears.

There are currently about nine styles to choose from with more on the way. And at a price point of $25, you really can't go wrong. Unless you don't own $25 dollars, in which case you should maybe focus on getting a job before you start collecting ties. Priorities, man.

Each tie measures 2.5 inches at it's widest point, and the current styles are made of either 100% cotton or 100% wool. Generally, I would recommend a silk tie when pairing with a suit for more formal occasions, but you would exect to pay at least 3-4 times as much for a high-quality silk tie, which is not fun. That being said, These ties are manufactured well and they look good, and when coordinated correctly, can work in both casual and formal settings. 

I highly recommend stopping by the Simply Skinny Ties website and picking up a couple ties to add to your collection and really make your style stand out. For $25, it'll be the best tie-based decision you make.


square that back pocket

Pocket squares don't necessarily need to be for fancy dress only. They can be fun and casual. In fact, i love the look of a pocket square in the back pocket of jeans. whether it's an actual pocket square or just a fresh handkerchief, i dig it. Not only does it look good, it also serves other purposes like cleaning the lenses on your glasses, and cushioning your butt when you sit, especially if you share that pocket with keys or a pockey knife. 

personally, I prefer the barely poking out approach for that little pop of style, but I suppose the placement and visibility is entirely up to you. Just remember you're not in a gang and it shouldn't be hanging down past your butt.


- james



strap up.

Regarding men's accessories, the general rule of thumb is that you want to match your belt, watch, and shoes. Meaning, your shoes and belt should be the same color leather, and your watch should be as close as possible. 

That being said, youprobably have more pairs of shoes than you do watches, which means it may be impossible to pair every shoe with a watch. While I'm sure that one day you;ll be able to afford to do so, there's a simpler solution in the meantime: Invest in multiple watch bands. 

With a few simple pieces of knowledge, the right tools, and some practice, you can swap out watch bands on your watches to more accurately pair your pieces.

Meet the Rolex Sea-Dweller, and the Submariner.

Now take a look at the different ways you can wear them.



Get Creative.


- James



abc's of Men's Fashion 50.

“The man who, as is often said, can get away with wearing a trench coat over his dinner jacket, or an old school tie for a belt, is the one who in fact understands best the rules of proper dress and can bend them to suit his own personality and requirements.”

- G. Bruce Boyer


- james


10 books on men's style.

Complex Style put out this list of 10 books on men's style to read before you die. Although, you're probably better off reading it sooner than later as it may be bit possible to stay stylish once you're dead.

the list.

icons of men's style by Josh sims

streetwear: the insider's guide by steven vogel

ralph lauren by ralph lauren

abc's of men's fashion by hardy amies

dpm (disruptive pattern material) by hardy blechman



you can find inspiration in everything (and if you can't, look again) by paul smith

handmade shoes for men by laszlo vaz and magda molnar

the official preppy handbook by lisa birnbach

dressing the man: mastering the art of permanent fashion by alan flusser


study up, my friends.


- james


h&m tweed bow tie.

Picked up a new bow tie today form H&M. I like bow ties if yu haven't noticed by now. drip drip.

- Taylor


blast from the past.

No, I'm not talking about that terrible movie from 1999 starring Brendan Fraser and Alicia Silverstone, I'm referring to the golden age of fashion. I mean look at this:

Am I right or am I right? The best compliment a man can receive is being described as dapper. And the best way to achieve such an adjective describing one's appearance is modeling certain aspects of your style on these classic styles. 

Here are some ideas on how to do just that:




old skool.

There's just something about taking inspiration from vintage fashion and mixing it with modern day flare that trumps any other style. It's classy, it's flashy, it's dapper. It makes me want to run a barber shop, or tend bar, or join the Rat Pack, or get in close with the Mafia, or ________ (enter old school reference). Just so dang cool.