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Entries in hardy amies (27)


abc's of men's fashion - 62.

french cuff

French cuffs are twice as long as regular cuffs, and then folded back on themselves and closed with cuff links. 

As they are more formal attire, French cuffs should not be worn every day, unless you’re a mob boss or the CEO of a Fortune 500 company. Generally speaking, French cuffs should only be worn with suit jackets. If you’ve got that certain je ne sais qois about you and know how to wear them without overpowering your outfit, then you might be able to pull off French cuffs with a blazer or a sport coat, but in most situations, it’s best to keep them formal and stick to the suit jacket.


fashion profile - brice pattison.

brice pattison is a designer for the brand todd snyder.

"there are things out there that I appreciate on other people that i wouldn't wear myself because I know it wouldn't be an authentic representation of myself."

I do believe a man should put his clothes on thoughtfully, but the end goal is to not look like you've been overly conscious to the way you're dressing."

"Style is about illustrating who you are in what you wear."


- james


fashion profile - yego moravia.

yego moravia - designer, teacher and entrepreneur. creative projects at Hella Crisis. Graphic Arts at the School of Visual Arts in New York City.

"fashion is really just the thing you say without opening your mouth; the thing you say by how the clothes lay on your body and what textures and rhythms, and even words, say on your clothing."


"i think style is curation -- i think it's choosing the parts that tell your story best. it takes a little bit of effort to dress yourself in a way that reflects who you are as a takes a little bit of care even though you want it to look like it's no big thing."

"you have to take a little bit of a stand of are you gonna be the type of person that dresses like everyone else, or is there something about you that might want to express yourself a little bit...?"


- james


Hardy Amies Snowdon 2015.


This small adventure,
In that wild place and at the dead of night,
On we wound,
With forehead bent Earthward,
As in opposition set against an enemy,
With eager pace, and no less eager thoughts.

‘Snowdon’ by W.Wordsworth


“Wordsworth’s poem is a story about a battle between ‘man’ and ‘the mountain’. This combined with a more literal colour study of Turner’s palette, formed the beginning of my own story about Mount Snowdon: a modern man’s ascent of the mountain.”

- Mehmet Ali, Creative Director


- James


fashion profile - street etiquette.

Joshua Kissi and Travis Gumbs are the founders of the, now, world famous men's fashion blog street etiquette.

"Style is every day stuff. It's not brand oriented, it's more fit and personal preference; fit a quality... it's more about you"


It's one of the most intimate things about a person, you know, the way you can connect with a person on the street or your friends. While Fashion is more of a broad stroke, while style is more of a fine stroke. 


- james


abc's of men's fashion - 59. 




In principle, your accessories, such as ties and shoes, should be more expensive than your basic suit, which in this way can achieve some reflected glory from them.

This gives more than a chance to play dress up. Certainly, it gives men access to what women, with their famed love of shoes and bags, have always known: that a single accessory can be worth a thousand shirts, or at least several suits. A good bag is more than something to carry stuff in; a hat – once customarily worn by any and every man of good breeding, remember – more than a way to keep the rain off; the significance of solid, well-buffed shoes (as mothers traditionally tell their daughters) more than a means of protecting one’s pretty feet.

That’s not simply because, unlike a shirt or suit, an accessory is harder to wear out and so better value. It’s because an accessory gives newness to otherwise everyday attire, a touch of flare to an otherwise pedestrian or conservative mode of dress. And for all that menswear has moved on in leaps over the last 20 or so years, it remains largely conservative – refined in the way Hardy Amies identified as at the heart of good dressing.

More than economy, freshness and colour, however, is the accessory’s real power: to provide individuality. Of course, this can go very wrong indeed: there is a fine line between accessorising with character and wearing a Daffy Duck tie, even if it’s a seven-fold silk number. No amount of novelty hosiery will make its wearer the dapper dandy he hopes to be. It will make him look, to say it straight, like a fool. Wear it well, however, and the accessory in all its 21st-century variety – something Amies would have appreciated – will belie its smallness with its power to transform.


- Hardy Amies, Josh Sims, 
  and James 


fashion profile - regis pennel.

Regis Pennel lives in Paris and is the founder of L’Exception, an online store and magazine which specializes in independent French designers.


"style is the first thing you see when you meet someone...and in a way, you start to understand them, because that's what the people you meet want to express."



"what defines the clothes and the look is how you're going to adapt it: how you're going to make it fit with other pieces. I think each person is defining their own style --you can have 1- person buying the same pieces and they'll have a different look when you see them in the streets."


- james


abc's of men's fashion - 56


Originated in the 1860s as a short jacket with patch pockets worn for cricket and tennis. In recent years,  and the blazer has arguably never been so popular, or so versatile. Gone are the laddish days of the Nineties and Noughties when it was cool not to make an effort. Dressing with elegance is now very much the fashion, something that has resulted in a resurgence in British tailoring, hence the rise of the blazer as a key component in the modern man’s day-to-day wardrobe.

A blazer, particularly a navy one, is the skeleton key that unlocks several looks. It can be dressed up with a natty pocket square and worn with a crisp white shirt, silk striped tie, smart trousers and brogues. Alternatively, it can be worn smart-casually with a button-down chambray shirt, chinos and boat shoes, or dressed down with a plain or Breton-striped T-shirt, indigo jeans and white Jack Purcells. It befits men of all ages and sizes and suits a great many occasions.

Traditionally cut a little shorter than a suit jacket, a blazer is usually worn as a ‘separate’ – ie with non-matching trousers rather than as part of the informal suit Mr Amies mentions. You do see some men wearing a suit jacket separately as a blazer, but it doesn’t look quite right because it’s usually too long.

If ever there was a garment that cracks the tricky smart-casual dress code, the blazer is surely it.

Dan Rookwood


- James


d is for double breasted.

courtesy of Mr. Hardy Amies:

Nature has made all men (and perhaps more fortunately, all women) double-breasted; and of course, all jackets follow suit. A double-breasted jacket really means therefore one with double-breasted fastenings. In this form of fastening the placing of the buttons is most important. The line is often emphasised by having the top button on either side placed where no fastening is possible. It follows therefore that the trick is most useful when a really narrow waistline is being sought. 

If double-breasted jackets were on the wane in 1964, then we have seen a veritable drought of the style for the past couple of decades. This is partly down to the sea change that took place after the 1980s, when all things Wall Street, including big shoulders, big trousers and big double-breasted lapels, fell from favour and were replaced with tighter, slimmer more high-buttoning single-breasted styles. This has remained the norm – with variations in button numbers from one to four, but always on a single-breasted jacket – for both suits and separates. However, some brave individualists have been waving the double- breasted banner for some time.

The beauty of the style is that it is very flattering, making a man look more like a superman. The most modern way of wearing it is as a separate jacket – a blazer or sports jacket alternative – with jeans or relaxed trousers in fabrics such as moleskin, corduroy or cavalry twill. You’ll look slim and chic and stand out. What more could a man want.


- james


abc's of men's fashion - 55


"If you use it every day, buy the very best. If you don’t, don’t." The goal here is to have fewer items in your closet that look better and last longer. Think of the items you wear often, whether blue jeans or a navy suit, buy one and be done. A $200 pair of selvedge jeans will outlast four pairs of regular Levi’s and look better in the process. But socks? Socks are socks, man--buy some that look good but don't spend an arm and a leg.


- james