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Entries in selvedge (11)


how to break in your denim.

breaking in your denim is an important process that can be frustrating, stressful, and tiresome. So here are some tips from the pros (and GQ): Andrew Chen of 3Sixteen, Matt Baldwin of Baldwin Denim, and Paul O'Neill of Levi's Vintage Clothing.

On wear:

Matt Baldwin: For me, it starts with the fabric. I love finding something new about the break-in process each season. Then comes fit. I try on jeans and find the size that fits perfectly, and then I purchase one size smaller. Dry, 100% cotton denim expands anywhere between one inch to 1.5 inches over a three month period of daily wear. From there I machine washing a few times before my usual first daring repair, and then continue to cold wash and hang dry throughout the denim's life.

Paul O'Neill: I tend to approach it a little differently than other people. First, I buy my jeans correct size in the waist (rather than size down) and a little longer in length (one or two inches). Then, I'll wear them for a few days before climbing into a warm bath in them and soak for 20 minutes. Once soaking is over, I slip out of the jeans and let them dry in the sun. This shrinks the jeans to your body shape. Because you were wearing them while shrinking them, they should not shrink smaller than your waist. I tend to check them when nearly dry and put them back on and stretch the waist out by squatting in them if needed.

On washing:

Andrew Chen: I think the number one thing I can suggest is to not be afraid to wash them. A lot of people went from washing jeans every week along with their socks and underwear to never, ever washing them (and subsequently losing friends and associates in the process). What we've found is that washing jeans every few months extends the life of your jeans significantly, because you're actively getting out the sweat, dirt and bacteria that will break the fabric down. And if the denim itself is beautiful, then it will not be adversely affected by consistent washes at all.

Paul O'Neill: Some people never wash their denim, but I do like to wash my jeans every so often—roughly every six months depending how often I've been wearing them. When I do wash them, I turn them inside out and wash separately (to avoid crease marks) on a cold wash and dry them flat.

Matt Baldwin: Super simple. Cold wash, hang dry. Go as long as you can between washes. Repair for character. That's it.

- james


gustin grabs.

In a previous article we talked about how Gustin works. Essentially, they make good quality stuff on limited runs of production based on predetermined demand. It's like Kickstarter for menswear. Once an item reaches a certain number of backers, they go into production and as soon as it's finished, those backers receive the product at a better price than a normal retail environment.

That being said, here are some of the current items up for grabs from Gustin.

cone w/ peach selvedge denim


navy american chino


italian double black selvedge denim


Japan slate blue twill shirt


moss red flannel shirt


USA hickory stripe work shirt


waxed dark oak trucker jacket


the handmade heavyweight belt


indigo selvedge apron


brown waxed dopp kit


saddle brown brass belt


classic belt


Click here to stop by Gustin's website and pickup some discounted gear.


- james


abc's of men's fashion - 55


"If you use it every day, buy the very best. If you don’t, don’t." The goal here is to have fewer items in your closet that look better and last longer. Think of the items you wear often, whether blue jeans or a navy suit, buy one and be done. A $200 pair of selvedge jeans will outlast four pairs of regular Levi’s and look better in the process. But socks? Socks are socks, man--buy some that look good but don't spend an arm and a leg.


- james


treat your denim right.

At this point, it's no mystery that I'm somewhat of a quality denim enthusiast. Let's be honest; I love denim, and denim loves me. We have somewhat of an unspoken bond, but I choose to speak about it (I should find a new type of bond).

I generally recommend investing some extra monies into a nice pair of jeans, instead of just grabbing the first skinny jeans you find. Feel free to grab some of those as well, but you want at least one go-to pair that will last you years and years and years, or at least until you get too fat.


I also recommend learning how to properly care for your jeans: knowing when and how to wash them. Treating selvedge denim can be a little tricky, so companies like Mr. Black have set out to make your life a little easier with their Denim Wash and Denim Refresh.

Denim Wash

A highly concentrated unique enzyme free wash specifically formulated to clean denim. This gentle liquid offers an unsurpassed clean by breaking down and rinsing away dirt whilst maintaining denim.


  • Helps maintain colour intensity 
  • Minimises fading 
  • Reduces the risk of shrinking and stretching 
  • Keeps denim in premium condition 
  • Made from plant derived ingredients


Denim Refresh

An all in-one product designed to clean and refresh and prevent stains from setting in denim. Denim Refresh gets to the root of the problem by attacking oils, surface dirt and bacteria that causes odours in the first place. 


  • Antibacterial
  • Kills odours
  • Biodegradable solution
  • Prolongs the time between washes
  • Keeps denim in premium condition
  • Extends the life of denim
  • Leaves denim fresh
  • Made from plant derived ingredients

For a few extra monies, why not protect your investment and extend the life of your new favorite jeans?

Click here to check out the Mr. Black Website


- james


levi's flagship.

You may or may not know that I recently moved to San Francisco for a new job (you probably have no idea since I haven't mentioned it before). First of all, don't worry your pretty little head because I'm certainly not leaving the cult. Secondly, I'm excited to tell you about all the amazing things I find here. 

That being said, allow me to present the first in a long list of cool stores in SF: The Levis Flagship Store on Market Street.

This 8000 square-foot store has a ridicuously large selection of levi's apparel, accessories, bags, stylish employees, and unique interior design using reclaimed wood from old san francisco piers. But I haven't even told you the coolest part yet...

Not only do they sell jeans here, but this flagship store houses several in-store tailors dedicated to creating limited numbered runs of unique designs sold in-store, repairing your busted levi's, tailoring your new jeans, or creating items custom made to it your body. Cool, right?!

If you're in the area, you need to check this place out.


- james





gustin is legitimately changing the game. They're not making things that have never been made before, and they're not creating the most extravagent and unique product. But they are, however, changing the way things are purchased, made, and delivered.

the story.

the company has been around for 8 years, making premium selvedge denim and high-end menswear featured in high-end boutiques across the US for around $205. Focusing on high quality, well-made products for style-centered customers. 

what sets them apart is where they went from there. they call it crowdourced fashion. Crowsourcing their products eliminates waste, and allows them to connect on a more personal level with their buyers.

how it works.

1. Gustin decides to produce a particular item of menswear. This item could be a shirt, a pair of jeans, a belt, anything.

2. They design the product and give you a sneak peak on their website, using pictures, and descriptions of the materials and manufacturing.

3. You decide that you want to pick up said product, and so you go online and "back" that item on the gustin website. (Just like a Kickstarter campaign)

4. Once the product reaches the set number of backers required, production begins, payment is made, and an estimated delivery date is set. (Just like a Kickstarter campaign)

5. Now you play the waiting game until you recieve your product. (Yes, just like a Kickstarter campaign)

What's great about this process is that, not only are you receiving an extremely limited edition item, but you're getting it at a fraction of the cost. Instead of spending $200+ on a pair of selvedge denim, you're spending around $80, and having it delivered to your front door. 

Gustin: Making of the Classic Belt from GUSTIN on Vimeo.

Sooooo....what are you still doing here? Stop by the Gustin Website and start backing some new digs.


- james





it's saturday. So go buy some new jeans for summer. And while you're doing it, listen to this tasty jam.

naked & famous selvedge denim


- james


meet the maker: rogue territory

Meet karl thoennessen, the maker of Rogue territory clothing. I like this video, it shows just how down-to-earth he is and just how amazing his clothing is.

If you're looking for a new pair of denim, or just a new piece to set yourself apart, I highly recommend taking a look at rogue territory.

Meet The Maker: Rogue Territory from Need Supply Co. on Vimeo.



- james


A.P.C. x Kanye west.

the french-based clothing company A.P.C. collaborated with Kanye West recently to launch an eight-piece "capsule collection". You probably know A.P.C. for their Japanese selvedge denim. What you might not know is that they also create unique and well-crafted tops.

The collection is designed in a (suprisingly) minimalistic style and includes two long-sleeved hoodies, a short-sleeved hoodie, two pairs of Japanese selvedge denim, and three t-shirts. Believe it or not, the A.P.C. x Kanye collection isn't extravagent or flashy--each piece is versatile and practical. Take a look at the collection below and click here if you'd like to see them in the A.P.C. store. 


- James


iron heart.

Am I currently obsessed with Iron Heart? I dunno, you tell me.

selvedge denim


quality button ups

 durable sewn tops

 quality crafted jackets

 masculine hardware

I generally like to find bargains and stick to affordable goods but sometimes it pays to spend extra on quality.

- James